Crate & Potty – The greatest BFF’s

Potty Training and its BFF – Crate training.

Throughout many years of training and interacting with new dog parents, I have received a myriad of questions and concerns in regards to crate training.

  • “I don’t want him to feel like we don’t trust it”
  • “Isn’t it like jail?”
  • “Why can’t it just have free reign in the house?”
  • “How big or small should a crate be?”
  • “For how long can it stay in the crate?”
  • “How will it help with potty training?”

These, among several other similar concerns pop often in training sessions. Let’s address some of them:

1. Trust, is a relative term when it comes to puppies. Will a puppy keep all your secrets better than a journal protected by the national guard? Yes! We shall give it a gold star for trustworthiness there.

Will a puppy seek every opportunity to chew, pee, poop and make a mess out of the alien world it is encountering? 100% yes. Let’s take back that gold star for no trust worthiness there.

Why is that though?

Puppies lack “impulse control” and they experience the world with their mouth. As we discussed in my previous entry The Wet Sock Vortex, bladders, colons and ways to explore the world (jaws and teeth) lack the knowledge to “not be”. In Shakespearean terms, if a puppy is asked: “to pee or not to pee” the answer will always be “To pee”.

2-. “Warden, bring forth the prisoner.” I would like to dispel this particular myth with a simple observation. If you believe your bedroom to be like jail, then you may have a winning argument. Otherwise, no. Crates are not like jail. Crates are meant to be considered a sanctuary, a place of rest and comfort, and most importantly, never a place for punishment.

3-. Free ranging puppies – Hmm.. please refer to explanation on point #1 or succumb to the wet sock vortex.

4-. Size requirements: For potty training purposes, a crate should be big enough for the puppy to move around, stand and change positions. Bigger is not better. The more space there is in a crate, the more likely accidents will happen. As the puppy grows, the crate should grow with them, as mentioned above “enough room to move and change positions”. Cozy but not cramped. For my dogs, I change sizes 3 times in their lifetime: Initial small-puppy crate, medium crate, and finally their permanent bedroom / crate.

Addendum to point #4: Please note that due to lack of impulse control, very young puppies (2-4 months) may still (and probably will) have accidents within their crate. A crate does not mean you won’t be investing a tremendous amount of time potty training. A crate is a training tool, not a magical solution.

Potty training is a developmental process. It is a marathon, not a race.

5-. Limit gauge:  The amount of time puppies can remain in crates increases with age. In the first few months during daytime, it can range from 1 to 3 hours. During night time from 5 to 6 hours.  As impulse, bladder and colon control increases with age, the longer we can increase the time.

Our dogs all sleep in their own crate. During the day, their crates are available and some choose to sleep in them and come out when they are done resting. However, my situation differs from most apartment dwellers or city living muggles.

Let’s discuss the nitty-gritty.

Best friends forever: Crate + Potty How exactly does it work?

The easiest explanation I can provide is: a crate becomes a den. Depending on the model of your crate it can be a very modern den mind you. Regardless, dogs prefer to keep their den (bedroom) clean, and rather not sit / sleep on their own eliminations. And who would really? Once timed, and introduced correctly, dogs will try their hardest to not eliminated in their crate.
 
We are trying to create a habit: Sleep dry, wake up and go outside to potty -this overtime becomes normalcy. Hence like peas and carrots, the crate becomes a catalyst in potty training if timed correctly.
 
Speaking of crates, I recommend hard -airline type crates with a double lock mechanism. A little bit pricier at first but worth it in the long run. It can also be used if traveling with your furry friend.  Wire crates are at the owners discretion, due to the weird positions dogs can get up to, it is possible for limbs, toes, and paws to get stuck in wire holes.

The Art of Crate and potty training

I would like to preface this particular subject by saying that all Bernerlandia pups already have a foundation for crate training. We start exposure around 3-4 weeks of age. In which case, our puppy parents are one step ahead in that regard.
 
Here are some basics however:
 
Introduce the crate by providing its meals, and treats in the crate, and leave the door open. The goal is to provide positive association with the crate itself.
 
NEVER shove, push, or force a puppy inside a crate. We want a positive association – I cannot stress this enough.
 
The door should be open at all times during introduction.
If the puppy / dog slept in the crate for any period of time. The absolute first thing to do is to let it outside to its place of potty. If “outside” is too far away, carry the puppy outside.
 
Remember: There is no impulse control! This applies to overnight, daytime naps, or after leaving them in the crate, if you went grocery shopping, etc.
 

After the aforementioned, let me say. When doing crate / potty training, please try and place the crate as close as possible to the potty area. This will make training and your life easier. 

*ALERT*
Brace. The ‘Puppy Eyes’ are coming for you!
A lot of puppies whine when first placed in a crate, and here as some reasons why:
#1: Basic needs. Pee, poop, hunger and tiredness.
 
If, all of the above reasons have been recently taken care of, it will whine for: attention (the puppy eyes are upon us!). This is the part that tends to get to most puppy owners. They tend to feel bad, and start conditioning the puppy that whining means coming out. Be strong Mary!
 
If all basic needs are covered, you may rest knowing the puppy is ok. It will test boundaries, and once it realizes the crate is where its at, the whining should stop. For first time owners this is extremely challenging. The whining may go on for 30 to 60 minutes (or more!).  We once had a poodle that whined and barked for 2 hours for the first 3 days, 1 hour for the next two and 30 min for the next two. Take heart in knowing this isn’t challenging only for first time owners.
 
Trainer tip:  When closing the crate’s door the first few times make sure your puppy is tired! Make the crate cozy, and guide your puppy inside with a treat or two. Close the door slowly while your puppy eats its treats. You may remain or not in the room, but do not talk or engage the puppy. Your voice is energy, and what we want is for it to rest.  The puppy, depending on tiredness, may or may not whine.
 
Being tired is key before closing them in the crate the first few times:the lack of energy does not allow sustained whining for the most part. Hence, they whine a little, go to sleep, and when they wake up, they go out to pee and a good cycle / habit is started.
 
Lastly, depending on the pup, I drape the crate with a blanket to remove visual stimulation.
 
A word about bedding and Toys in a crate:
 
 As we shall discuss in the next entry “The chewed sock vortex”, puppies explore the world with their teeth. Please know, any bedding is likely to get chewed. If providing toys while crate and potty training, I suggest strong toys that are hard to pull apart (such as Kong chew toys). I highly recommend staying clear of squeaky toys, rope toys and toys with unknown stuffing.
 
When I first start crating, I provide minimal bedding (a blanket) and one or two kong toys, depending on the breed. For Bernese Mountain dogs and double coated breeds, I can say by experience, they don’t tend to like bedding in their crates, and will likely push it away. Remember this breed was built to withstand freezing temps, and is basically wearing a mink coat.
 
While there is a whole lot more we can discuss in this subject, I hope that was able to provide some assistance.
 
Until the next chapter!
Thanks for reading.
 
 
 
 

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DVM by Career, Breeder by heart.

Loving Berners is our passion, breeding them our privilege.

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